Winter Snow Angel Crochet Pattern – Free Christmas Ornament

Handmade Christmas

• Advanced
• US Terms
• ≈ 19 cm tall

This free Winter Snow Angel crochet pattern turns a cosy snowman into a keepsake Christmas ornament: a stuffed amigurumi head and bell-shaped body, soft lace wings, a scalloped dress, a pom-pom hat with a striped scarf and a tumble of beaded winter flowers, finished with a golden jingle bell. It is one of our free Christmas and holiday crochet patterns, written in US terms with clear placement maps and five photo step guides.

Before you cast on: if the abbreviations are new to you, our guide to how to read crochet patterns explains them, and the Crochet Calculator & Tools page has an abbreviation lookup, gauge calculator, yarn estimator and hook size converter you can keep open beside this pattern.

Skill level

Advanced

Finished size

≈ 19–21 cm tall

Terms

US terms

Yarn

Sport / light DK cotton, ≈ 55 g

Hook

2.5 mm (or size for gauge)

Techniques

Amigurumi, flat lace, floral appliqué

1Welcome

A keepsake snow angel who brings a little snow-day cheer to the tree — a cosy snowman face tucked inside a pom-pom hat and striped scarf, with soft lace wings, a scalloped dress and a tumble of winter flowers, finished with a golden bell that chimes when it swings.

This pattern blends amigurumi, flat lace shaping and layered floral appliqué. Each piece is worked separately, then assembled and decorated using the clear placement maps near the end of the guide. Take your time with the floral arrangement — that is where the ornament truly comes to life.

2Materials & Tools

Yarn

Sport-weight or light DK cotton of even thickness (approx. 125–160 m per 50 g). Eight shades are used; most are needed only in small amounts.

Total yarn: roughly 55 g. Amounts include a small allowance for sewing and finishing; exact use varies with gauge and tension.

3Size, Gauge & Abbreviations

Abbreviations — US Terminology

4General Notes & Stitch Guide

How to work this pattern

• Amigurumi pieces (head, nose, body, base, pom-pom) are worked in continuous spiral rounds — do not join unless told to. Mark the first stitch of each round.
• Flat pieces (wings, fans, scarf, flowers, leaves) are turned at the end of each row. Turning chains do not count as a stitch.
• Numbers in brackets, e.g. (60), are the stitch count at the end of that round or row.
• All appliqués are made with the RS facing out. Weave in structural ends; keep a sewing tail on pieces that are sewn on later.

Special stitches

Parts list

5The Snowman — Head, Nose & Face

Part A · HeadShade A, spiral rounds

FO leaving a 25 cm tail; close the last 6 sts through the front loops. Keep the face softly rounded. Do not join to the body yet.

6The Body, Dress & Base

Part D · Bell bodyShade A, worked top-down

Alternating increase and plain rounds give the body its gentle bell flare. Keep stuffing until later.

Do not cut the yarn. Mark the front-centre stitch of R18. The back loops of R18 are kept free to join the base disc; the scalloped border is worked into the front loops.

Photo Step Guide 1 · Head, Face & Body Foundation

7Wings & Skirt Fans

Part G · Lace angel wingsShade A · make 2

A wide, open panel grown over sixteen increase rows (R2–R17) with eyelets for an airy lace, finished with a six-lobe scalloped edge. At the end of every row ch 1 and turn (this turning ch is not counted). Each eyelet is (ch 1, skip 1 st); on the following row, work 1 sc into that ch-1 space as you pass it — the eyelet replaces one stitch, so the count still rises by just one per row.

Outer scallops (symmetrical): across the 26 sts of R17 — sl st in the first st, then rep 6 times → [sk 1, 7 dc in next st, sk 1, sl st in next st], and sl st in the last st. This centres the six lobes (42 dc) with a balancing slip stitch at each end, so both corners of the wing match. Edge the sides: ~15 sc down the first side, 10 sc across the foundation, ~15 sc up the second side, sl st to join. FO with a 40 cm tail. Make the second wing the same, then flip it to mirror. Block both flat and matching — open the eyelets gently, but don’t stretch them wide.

Part H · Skirt fansmake 7 · B, C, A

FO with a 25 cm tail. Each fan has a narrow point and a curved 12-st outer edge. Make all seven identical.

Photo Step Guide 2 · Wings & Skirt Fans

8Hat, Pom-pom & Scarf

Part I · Winter hatB, C, A · worked top-down

Plain rounds between increases build a tall, soft point that leans to one side. Work R1–15 in B.

Ribbed brim: R24 (B) ch2, dc in each st, join (66).  R25–27 (C): ch2, (fpdc, bpdc) ×33, join (66).  R28 (B): ch1, 1 sc in the top of each stitch around (work into the two top loops at the top of each fpdc/bpdc from R27), join (66). FO with a 30 cm tail. Fold the ribbed brim up against the outside of the cap and tack with 4 hidden stitches.

Photo Step Guide 3 · Hat, Pom-pom & Scarf

9Flowers, Leaves, Stems & Berries

Photo Step Guide 4 · Flowers, Leaves & Trims

10Placement Maps

Use these schematic maps while you pin and sew. They show relative positions, not exact stitch gauge — pin everything first and adjust by eye before sewing.

11Assembly & Placement

Work with the face up. The front-centre line runs through the nose, smile, buttons and bell. Number the nine cream scallops from the front-centre scallop (S1) going right.

1. Join head & body. Both pieces are already stuffed and closed. Line up the front-centre markers and rest the head on the body so the head’s closed base sits into the body’s narrow top; the two circles that meet are roughly Head R24 and Body R4 (24 sts each), with the closed tips tucking inside the neck. With a long strand of A, whipstitch right around this contact circle — catch one head stitch and one body stitch each time, working all the way around (~24 stitches) and keeping even tension so the head stays centred. Go around a second time for strength, then add 4 anchoring stitches at front, back and both sides. The join should hold the head upright with no wobble.
2. Attach the wings. Place both behind the head and torso, narrow edges toward the centre, scallops outward, top lobes angled up. Sew each wing’s 10 foundation sts: upper 3 to the side of Head R21–23, lower 7 to the body around R6–12. Add a reinforcing stitch top and bottom. Don’t sew the outer scallops down or close the eyelets.
3. Skirt fans. Pin all 7 across the lower body, narrow points up at ~Body R14, curved edges down toward the scallops, leaving the cream trim visible. Overlap neighbours by 5–8 mm in order F1→F7. Sew the point and two outer corners; leave the curved edge free for lift.
4. Buttons. Sew the two antique-brass buttons on the front centre line at ~R10 and ~R13, vertically aligned, clear of the flowers.
5. Build the skirt flowers in this order: stems → large leaves → outer small flowers → berries → left large flower → centre large flower → remaining small flowers → scattered pearls. Place the left flower ~2.5 cm left of centre over F2–F3; the centre flower slightly lower and ~0.5 cm right over F4–F5, overlapping in front. Sew each large flower at its centre and two opposite petal bases only — leave outer petals free.
6. Leaf direction. Behind the left flower: one tip up-left, one down-left, one toward centre. Behind the centre flower: one down-left, one up-right, one down-right. The two outer leaves point out to the left and right of the cluster. Hide each leaf base under a flower or berry; tack the base and mid-vein, leave the tip free.
7. Berries & pearls. Skirt berries in three groups — 4 near the left flower, 2 between the flowers, 2 at the right. Scatter the 6 remaining pearls — 2 left, 2 centre, 2 right — sewn through the fabric, not onto other beads.
8. Fit the hat. Sit the folded brim just above the eyes, crown centred, leaving eyes, cheeks and smile clear. Tack with 5 hidden stitches (back, both sides, two at the front) inside the fold.
9. Hat trim. On the right of the brim, sew the 2 small leaves first, then 5 blue berries (3 front, 2 behind) over the bases, then 3 ivory pearls between them. Sew the pom-pom to the upper-right, clear of where the cord will sit.
10. Scarf. Wrap once around the neck, crossing on the right below the cheek; the long embroidered end hangs down the front, fringe finishing above the dress edge. Tack behind the neck and at the crossing with a few hidden stitches; leave the hanging end loose.
11. Hanging loop. Fold the 30 cm cord in half, thread both ends through the wooden bead to leave a 4–5 cm loop above it. Pass the ends through the hat crown into the top of the head, bring them out to opposite sides, and knot firmly under the hat so the weight hangs from the stuffed head, not the hat. Test before adding the bell.
12. Bell. With A, ch 6 and join into a loop; sew it under the fifth (centre) dc of the nine-dc scallop S1. Open the jump ring, pass it through the loop and the bell, and close. The bell should hang free and centred below the dress.

Photo Step Guide 5 · Final Assembly

12Finishing Checklist

Gently shape the cheeks, brim, wing and dress scallops, petals, leaves, pom-pom loops and scarf ends. Trim all tails. Tick each as you check it.

• Head evenly stuffed, 60 sts at the widest round, base closed.
• Eyes level and symmetrical, 10 sts apart; nose, cheeks, smile and lashes secure.
• Body flares as a smooth bell and is firmly joined to the head.
• Base disc closes all 72 back loops; nine cream scallops sit free and even.
• Both wings worked to 26 sts with six outer scallops, mirrored and balanced.
• All 7 skirt fans attached in order with the cream trim showing.
• Both buttons aligned on the front centre line.
• Hat forms a soft point, 66 sts at the brim, ribbed brim folded and tacked.
• Pom-pom closed and firm, sewn to the upper-right of the hat.
• Scarf: crosswise stripe bands, fringe at both ends, snowflake on the hanging end.
• Two large and five small flowers complete; centres beaded as charted.
• 8 large and 2 small leaves with raised veins; both stems hidden under the flowers.
• All 13 berries placed — 8 skirt, 5 hat. All 21 ivory + 4 blue beads accounted for.
• Wooden bead and loop anchored to the head; bell hangs free and centred.
• No loose ends, stray stuffing or unsecured beads remain.

Winter Snow Angel Crochet Pattern FAQ

How big is the finished snow angel ornament?

It stands about 19–21 cm tall from hat to bell and is about 19–21 cm wide across the wings. Exact size depends on your gauge (24 sc × 32 rounds = 10 × 10 cm) — check yours with the Gauge Calculator.

What yarn and hook do I need?

Sport-weight or light DK cotton in eight shades, roughly 55 g in total, worked with a 2.5 mm hook or the size that gives you the gauge. If you are choosing a cotton, our best yarn for crochet projects guide helps, and the Hook Size Converter translates hook sizes between systems.

Is this pattern beginner friendly?

It is marked Advanced because it combines amigurumi shaping, lace wings and floral appliqué. If you are newer to crochet, build confidence with the 6 basic crochet stitches and how to crochet for absolute beginners first, then try a simpler ornament from our holiday patterns.

Is the snow angel safe for children?

It is a decorative ornament, not a children’s toy, because of the small beads, safety eyes, buttons and bell. For a child-safe version, replace the eyes and beads with embroidered details and omit the bell.

Can I make a smaller, mini version?

Yes. Use a 4-ply crochet cotton with a 1.75–2 mm hook and the whole piece scales down proportionally. The Yarn Estimator can help you work out the yardage.

Do I need to block the wings and scallops?

Blocking is what sets the crisp, uniform scalloped flare. Lightly dampen the wing and dress-fan edges, pin them into an even shape and let them dry fully. Protect the eyes, beads, buttons and bell, and do not steam over them.

How do I hang the ornament?

A 30 cm cotton cord threads through a wooden bead and passes through the hat crown into the head, so the weight hangs from the stuffed head. See Step 11 of the assembly instructions.

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