Nordic Star Gnome Crochet Pattern – Free Amigurumi Christmas Gnome

Nordic Star Gnome Crochet Pattern – Free Amigurumi Christmas Gnome
Handmade Christmas
Twinkle the Nordic Star Gnome amigurumi: a red crochet gnome with a bendy star-tipped hat, golden stars, white snow dots, a white layered leaf beard, beige nose and white-cuffed arms
  • Intermediate
  • US Terms
  • 22 cm tall
  • Amigurumi

This free Nordic Star Gnome crochet pattern makes Twinkle, a plump, happy little Christmas gnome with a bendy star-tipped hat, a soft layered leaf beard and a scatter of golden stars. He stands about 22 cm (8.6 in) tall in sport-weight cotton and comes with full stitch counts and photo step guides. Add him to your collection of free amigurumi patterns, browse more free Christmas and holiday crochet patterns, or see the whole Free Patterns library.

Before you cast on: if the abbreviations are new to you, our guide to how to read crochet patterns explains them, and the free Crochet Calculator & Tools page can check your gauge, hook size and yarn amounts.

Skill level
Intermediate – comfortable with magic rings, increases and decreases
Finished size
approx. 22 cm (8.6 in) tall x 13 cm (5.1 in) wide at the base
Make time
A relaxed weekend project – roughly 6-9 hours
Hook
2.5 mm (US C-2) – convert hook sizes

1Before You Begin

Please read this page through before casting on

So glad you are here! You are about to make Twinkle, a plump little gnome who is basically all hat, all beard and all heart. His tall hat leans into a cheeky curl, his beard tumbles down in soft layered points, and a sprinkle of golden stars finishes him off like a little bit of Christmas magic.

This pattern walks you through every single round, with the running stitch count shown on the right of each line so you always know you are on track. Nothing is rushed and nothing is skipped. Make a warm drink, pick your coziest corner and let’s begin. Every stitch count has been checked round by round, so if your numbers match the count badges, your gnome will come out just right.

New to amigurumi?

Brush up first with our guide to the 6 basic crochet stitches, the tutorial on increasing in a crochet circle (the magic ring and stitch chart) and our crochet for absolute beginners guide. Comfortable grip? See how to hold a crochet hook.

A few friendly reminders
  • Read the round first. Glance over each line before hooking it – your future self will thank you.
  • Mark your first stitch. Because we work in a spiral, a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round is your best friend.
  • Keep stitches snug. Exact gauge is not critical, but a tight fabric means the stuffing never peeks through.
  • Safety note. If this gnome is for a baby or young child, embroider all details, skip any beads or pellets and stuff firmly instead.

2Gauge, Tension & Size

Exact gauge is not critical for this pattern. Just keep your stitches snug so the fabric is firm and the stuffing does not show through. If you crochet loosely, drop down a hook size.

With sport-weight cotton and a 2.5 mm hook, the finished gnome stands approx. 22 cm (8.6 in) tall and 13 cm (5.1 in) wide at the base. Thicker yarn and a bigger hook give you a bigger gnome, so a cotton yarn that stays crisp is the best choice for defined stars and beard points.

Free tools · Gauge & hook size

Work a quick swatch and run it through the Gauge Calculator, and use the Hook Size Converter to match the 2.5 mm (US C-2) hook to the sizes in your own kit.

3Materials

ItemUsed for
YarnSport weight / Fine (Category 2), 100% cotton. A crisp cotton keeps the stars and beard points nicely defined.
Color A – RedMain body, hat and sleeves – approx. 60 g
Color B – WhiteLayered leaf beard, arm cuffs and French-knot snow dots – approx. 35 g
Color C – Beige / skin toneNose and hands – approx. 15 g
Color D – Golden yellowLarge tip star and 7 small hat stars – approx. 10 g
  • 2.5 mm (US C-2) hook – or whatever hook gives you a tight, even fabric
  • Polyester fiberfill stuffing – approx. 70 g
  • Base weight: plastic pellets or glass beads in a sealed pouch, approx. 50 g, which makes Twinkle sit so proudly upright
  • Tapestry needle for assembly and the little French-knot snow dots
  • Stitch markers – at least one, to mark the start of each round
  • Floral wire or a pipe cleaner (optional) – one piece, approx. 15 cm, tucked inside the hat tip to hold the signature curl permanently
  • Scissors and a few spare pins to position pieces before sewing
Yarn-choosing tip

No cotton on hand? A smooth sport-weight acrylic works beautifully too – just match all four colors in the same weight so your gnome keeps his tidy proportions.

Free tool · Yarn planning

Making a whole row of gnomes for gifts or a craft fair? Use the Yarn Estimator to work out how much red, white, beige and gold you need, and read our guide to the best yarn for crochet projects before you shop.

4Abbreviations (US terms)

MR
magic ring
sl st
slip stitch
hdc
half double crochet
inc
increase – 2 sc in the same stitch (how to increase)
hdc-inc
2 hdc in the same stitch
dec
decrease – sc 2 together (sc2tog)
BLO
back loop only
FLO
front loop only
st(s)
stitch(es)
rnd(s)
round(s)
[ ] x N
repeat what is in the brackets N times
(N)
total stitch count for that round
How to read a round

Example: Rnd 3: [sc 1, inc] x6 (18). Work 1 single crochet, then 2 sc into the next stitch, and repeat that pair six times around. When you finish, you should have 18 stitches in the round. Simple as that!

Free tools · Abbreviations

Not sure what an abbreviation means? Look it up in the Abbreviations lookup, or paste a round into the Pattern Decoder for a plain-English explanation. Our guide to how to read crochet patterns and the pattern reading tutorials cover the rest.

Golden rule of amigurumi

Keep it snug and keep counting. If a round ends on the wrong number, it is almost always a missed or doubled stitch – pop it back a few stitches rather than pushing on.

5Making Twinkle

Part by part, round by round

Part 1 · Main BodyColor A – Red · worked in a continuous spiral, start at the base

Rnd 16 sc in MR6
Rnd 2[inc] x612
Rnd 3[sc 1, inc] x618
Rnd 4[sc 2, inc] x624
Rnd 5[sc 3, inc] x630
Rnd 6[sc 4, inc] x636
Rnd 7[sc 5, inc] x642
Rnd 8[sc 6, inc] x648
Rnd 9[sc 7, inc] x654
Rnd 10sc in each st around, working in BLO (this sets the flat base edge)54
Rnds 11-18sc in each st around (8 rounds – the straight body)54
Rnd 19[sc 7, dec] x648
Rnds 20-22sc in each st around48
Rnd 23[sc 6, dec] x642
Rnds 24-25sc in each st around42
Rnd 26[sc 5, dec] x636
Rnds 27-28sc in each st around36
Now stuff and weight the body (see the box below) before the opening gets small.
Rnd 29[sc 4, dec] x630
Rnd 30[sc 3, dec] x624
Rnd 31[sc 2, dec] x618
Rnd 32[sc 1, dec] x612
Rnd 33[dec] x66
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Thread it through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pull snug to close the top neatly, then weave the end inside. Twinkle’s body is done – give him a happy squish!
Now stuff & weight

Drop the sealed pellet pouch flat into the base, then begin filling firmly with fiberfill around it. Keep topping up as you close so Twinkle stays plump and sits rock-steady.

Photo Step Guide 1

Twinkle gnome crochet tutorial page 1: step-by-step photos of the main body from magic ring to weighted base
Photo tutorial page 1: main body, from magic ring to weighted base.

Part 2 · NoseColor C – Beige · worked in a continuous spiral

Rnd 16 sc in MR6
Rnd 2[inc] x612
Rnd 3[sc 1, inc] x618
Rnd 4[sc 2, inc] x624
Rnds 5-7sc in each st around24
Rnd 8[sc 2, dec] x618
Rnd 9[sc 1, dec] x612
Stuff firmly – a round, proud nose is the whole charm here. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Make it rounder

Pack the nose a touch firmer than feels necessary; cotton relaxes a little once it is stitched in place.

Photo Step Guide 2

Twinkle gnome crochet tutorial page 2: step-by-step photos of the beige nose
Photo tutorial page 2: the beige nose.

Part 3 · Pointed Curved HatColor A – Red · worked in a continuous spiral from the tip down

Rnd 14 sc in MR4
Rnd 2[sc 1, inc] x26
Rnds 3-4sc in each st around6
Rnd 5sc 4, inc, sc 1 (single-side increase – starts the curl)7
Rnd 6sc in each st around7
Rnd 7sc 5, inc, sc 18
Rnd 8sc 6, inc, sc 19
Rnd 9[sc 2, inc] x312
Rnds 10-11sc in each st around12
Rnd 12[sc 3, inc] x315
Rnds 13-14sc in each st around15
Rnd 15[sc 4, inc] x318
Rnds 16-17sc in each st around18
Rnd 18[sc 2, inc] x624
Rnds 19-20sc in each st around24
Rnd 21[sc 3, inc] x630
Rnds 22-23sc in each st around30
Rnd 24[sc 4, inc] x636
Rnds 25-26sc in each st around36
Rnd 27[sc 5, inc] x642
Rnds 28-29sc in each st around42
Rnd 30[sc 6, inc] x648
Rnds 31-32sc in each st around48
Rnd 33[sc 7, inc] x654
Rnds 34-35sc in each st around54
Rnd 36[sc 8, inc] x660
Rnd 37sc in each st around60
Rnd 38Brim: working in FLO, [hdc 9, hdc-inc] x666
Rnd 39hdc in each st around66
Rnd 40sl st in each st around (tidies the rolled brim edge)66
Fasten off and weave in the end. Do not stuff the hat – its shape comes alive once it is bent into that signature curl during assembly (see The curl that stays put in Part 7).
Free tool · Resize the hat

Using thicker yarn or a larger hook? The Hook Size Converter and Gauge Calculator help you check that your hat brim still fits over the body before you sew.

Photo Step Guide 3

Twinkle gnome crochet tutorial page 3: step-by-step photos of the pointed curved hat, rolled brim and wire curl
Photo tutorial page 3: tip shaping, cone growth, rolled brim and lasting curl.

Part 4 · ArmsMake 2 · Colors C, B & A · worked in a continuous spiral

Hand (Color C – Beige)

Rnd 16 sc in MR6
Rnd 2[inc] x612
Rnd 3[sc 3, inc] x315
Rnds 4-6sc in each st around15
Rnd 7[sc 3, dec] x3 – change to Color B (white) in the last stitch12

Cuff (Color B – White)

Rnd 8working in FLO, [sc 1, inc] x618
Rnds 9-10sc in each st around18
Fasten off white. The cuff flares out like a little snow trim.

Sleeve (Color A – Red)

Rnd 11join Color A into the remaining back loops of Rnd 7 (behind the cuff); sc in each st around12
Rnds 12-18sc in each st around12
Lightly stuff just the lower hand and leave the upper arm soft and empty. Flatten the top opening and sc 6 across both layers to seal it shut. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make a second arm.
Cuff magic explained

Working the cuff in the front loops of Rnd 7, then the sleeve in the leftover back loops, is the trick that gives that crisp folded-cuff ledge. Take it slow the first time – it clicks instantly once you see it.

Photo Step Guide 4

Twinkle gnome crochet tutorial page 4: step-by-step photos of the arms with beige hands, white cuffs and red sleeves
Photo tutorial page 4: arms with beige hands, white FLO cuffs and red sleeves.

Part 5 · Layered Leaf BeardColor B – White · the showpiece

Twinkle’s beard is three rows of pointed leaves that overlap into soft, snowy points. There are two ways to make it, and both give the same look. Method A works all the leaves onto one foundation strip. Method B makes each leaf as a loose piece and sews them on in rows. New to layered beards? Go straight to Method B – it is the most reliable way to get the full, overlapping look, with nothing to anchor mid-work.

How a leaf works

Each leaf is a chain crocheted down one side to a point, then back up the mirror side. The dc stitches in the middle fatten it, then it tapers, and a slip stitch along the strip locks each leaf in place. If chains are new to you, see how to start a crochet chain.

Method A · Foundation strip

BaseWith Color B, ch 25
Row 1sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across; turn (this strip sits highest on the face)24
Tier 1 · Short leaves – make 7
  • 1. Ch 7.
  • 2. From the 2nd ch from hook, down side 1: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1 (you are now at the tip).
  • 3. At the tip, ch 1 and pivot to the opposite loops of the same chain; up side 2: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1.
  • 4. sl st into the next 3 sts of the strip to anchor the leaf and move along. Repeat steps 1-4 a total of 7 times across the strip.
Tier 2 · Medium leaves – make 6

Reattach Color B into the free back loops just below Tier 1. This tucks Tier 2 under and behind Tier 1. Repeat x6: ch 10; down side 1 from the 2nd ch: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 5, hdc 1, sc 1; ch 1, pivot; up side 2: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 5, hdc 1, sc 1; sl st into the next 4 sts.

Tier 3 · Long leaves – make 5

Reattach along the slip-stitch ridge at the base of the Tier 2 leaves (the anchor stitches between each leaf), so Tier 3 sits lowest and behind. Make 4 side leaves (2 left, 2 right), then 1 centre point.

  • Side leaves x4: ch 13; down: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 8, hdc 1, sc 1; ch 1, pivot; up: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 8, hdc 1, sc 1; sl st into the next 4 sts.
  • Centre point x1: ch 16; down: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 11, hdc 1, sc 1; ch 1, pivot; up: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 11, hdc 1, sc 1; sl st to the centre. Fasten off with a long tail and finger-press so the tiers fan.

Method B · The easy way (separate leaves)

If working into back loops feels fiddly, make every leaf as a loose piece and sew them onto the body in three overlapping rows. Nothing to anchor mid-work, and it is easy to arrange them exactly like the photo.

One loose leaf – the only recipe you need

Ch (length); from the 2nd ch from hook, down one side: sc 1, hdc 1, dc xk, hdc 1, sc 1; ch 1, pivot; up the mirror side: sc 1, hdc 1, dc xk, hdc 1, sc 1; sl st to the first st. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

LeafChainDC count (k)Make
Short – top rowch 727
Medium – middle rowch 1056
Long – bottom rowch 1384
Centre pointch 16111
  1. Bottom row first. On the body front, sew the 5 long leaves across first – the centre point dead-centre and longest, two side leaves either side, fanning down over the belly (around Rnds 22-26).
  2. Middle row. Sew the 6 medium leaves a little higher, so their tops cover where the long leaves were stitched (around Rnds 24-27).
  3. Top row. Sew the 7 short leaves highest of all, hiding the medium tops – this is the row the nose will sit just above (around Rnds 26-28).
The overlap trick

Each row should hide the sewn tops of the row below, like roof tiles. Pin the whole beard first, check it against the photo, then sew. As a guide, the beard should spread about as wide as the body front (roughly two-thirds of the way around) and reach down to around Rnd 22, but trust the photo over any number, since your exact width depends on your gauge.

Photo Step Guide 5

Twinkle gnome crochet tutorial page 5: step-by-step photos of the layered leaf beard, loose leaves sewn in three rows
Photo tutorial page 5: Method B layered leaf beard, sewn bottom row first.

Part 6 · The Little StarsColor D – Golden yellow

Large tip star – make 1

Rnd 110 sc in MR, sl st to 1st sc10
Rnd 2Points: [ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, skip 1 st on the centre ring, sl st in next st] x55 points
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Small hat stars – make 7

Rnd 15 sc in MR, sl st to 1st sc5
Rnd 2Points: [ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sl st in next st of ring] x55 points
Fasten off each star, leaving a tail for sewing.
Star-making made joyful

These work up in under two minutes each – perfect little TV-night makes. Crochet a couple of spares; a star or two always wants to wander off to decorate something else. Want a bigger, flatter ornament? Try our amigurumi star pattern or the easy Silmë Star ornament.

You should now have
  • 1 x Body, 1 x Nose and 1 x Hat
  • 2 x Arms
  • 1 x Layered beard (Method A strip or Method B loose leaves)
  • 1 large + 7 small stars

Lay everything out and admire the little pile of pieces – this is the fun part. Next we bring Twinkle to life.

Photo Step Guide 6

Twinkle gnome crochet tutorial page 6: step-by-step photos of the large tip star, small hat stars and white snow dots
Photo tutorial page 6: large tip star, 7 small stars and white French-knot snow dots.

6Stitch-Count Map

A quick reference for key milestones – whenever you pause, glance here

PartMilestoneCount
Main BodyRnd 9 – widest point of the base54 sts
Main BodyRnds 10-18 – straight body tube54 sts
Main BodyRnd 33 – top closure6 sts
NoseRnd 4 – widest point24 sts
HatRnd 37 – just before the brim60 sts
HatRnds 38-40 – outward brim66 sts
Arm (each)Rnd 3 hand · Rnd 11 sleeve15 / 12 sts
Large star5 points · 3 sts per point5 points
Small star5 points · 2 sts per point5 points
Use me as a checkpoint

If your widest base is 54 and your pre-brim hat is 60, you are perfectly on course.

7Putting It Together

Twinkle’s whole personality lives in placement – pin every piece first, step back for a look, nudge things until he is smiling at you, then stitch

  1. Beard first. Sew the foundation strip (or the three rows of loose leaves) horizontally across the front, between Rnds 22 and 28, letting the pointed leaves spill downward over the lower body.
  2. Add the nose. Centre it over the top edge of the beard (covering Rnds 26-29) and stitch securely all the way around the perimeter.
  3. Attach the arms. Pin them symmetrically at Rnds 25-27, angled gently forward beside the beard. Sew the flattened tops flush to the body.
  4. Fit the hat. If using the wire, slide it inside the tip now. Settle the hat over the head so the brim rests right above the nose and slants a touch toward the back. Sew along the inside loop line of Rnd 37, then bend the narrow tip into that happy curl, sweeping it to one side (to the right, as in the photo).
  5. Stars on. Sew the large gold star right at the end of the bent tip. Space the 7 small stars fairly evenly across the front and sides of the cone, roughly 2-3 cm apart and clear of the brim and the very tip. Pin them first and nudge until the spacing looks happy.
  6. Snow dots. With white yarn, embroider 12-15 small French knots dotted in the spaces between the stars.
Assembly at a glance
  • Body – base: stuffed, weighted and sealed so it sits flat and steady.
  • Beard – across the front: Rnds 22-28, leaves cascading down.
  • Nose – centre: overlaps the top edge of the beard, around Rnds 26-29.
  • Arms – sides: symmetrical at Rnds 25-27, angled slightly forward.
  • Hat – on top: rests just above the nose, tip curled to the side.
  • Stars & snow dots: large star on the tip, 7 small ones scattered, French knots between.
The curl that stays put

For a curl that holds forever, fold a 15 cm length of floral wire (or a pipe cleaner) in half, give it a twist, and slide it up inside the narrow hat tip – roughly Rnds 1-15 – before you sew the hat down. Now the tip bends into any shape and stays there. Do not be shy with the bend; that bold sideways curl is what turns a plain cone into Twinkle. For a baby-safe gnome, skip the wire and simply shape the tip by hand.

Photo Step Guide 7

Twinkle gnome crochet tutorial page 7: final assembly order for beard, nose, arms, hat, stars and snow dots
Photo tutorial page 7: final assembly, in order.

8Final Checklist

A little checklist before he is done

Styling idea

A tiny dab of fabric stiffener on the hat tip will hold that curl forever – lovely if Twinkle is heading to a shelf, a mantel or a gift box.

Free tools · Plan & price your gnomes

Making a few gnomes for gifts or a craft fair? Keep track of your yarn and hours in the Project Planner, and work out a fair price for your finished makes with the Crochet Pricing Calculator.

Terms of use

This pattern is a single-maker license for your personal creative use. You may sell the finished gnomes you make from it in small amounts, at craft fairs, markets and your own little shop – a kind credit back to Crochet Patterns Hub is always appreciated but never required. Please do not copy, share, resell, translate or give away the pattern (in part or whole), and please do not claim the design as your own or use the photos as your own listings. Thank you for respecting the many hours of design, testing and love that went into it.

You did it! Twinkle is finished – and somewhere out there he is already deciding whose shelf he belongs on. Thank you for choosing this pattern and for the care you have poured into every stitch. If you make him, we would love to see your photos – tag your makes and share a little handmade joy.

More Free Christmas Crochet Patterns

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Happy crocheting!

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